How to Grind Glass

May 9th, 2012

1 Wear safety glasses and a work apron, have a face shield attached to the grinder, and position a back splash along the back and sides of the grinder to contain any airborne glass chips and water overspray.
2 Keep water in the reservoir and have a moistened sponge positioned adjacent to the diamond-coated bit at all times.
3 Cut each glass piece on the inside of the pattern line to fit the pattern with less grinding and allow for the application of copper foil. If the glass pieces fit the pattern and do not overlap the pattern line, make one quick swipe against the grinding bit on each edge of the glass to dull any sharp edges. Only light pressure is required when pushing the glass against the bit.
4 If traces of the marked line are still visible on the piece, grind the edge to ensure an accurate fit within the pattern lines.
5 Check the piece again with the pattern. If any part of the piece still overlaps, mark the area with a permanent waterproof marker. Grind the excess away. Check the piece with the pattern. Repeat until the piece fits.
6 Repeat steps 3 through 5 for each piece, making sure to leave a very narrow space between the pieces to accommodate the copper foil. Pieces that leave a large gap between the line and the adjacent piece should be recut.
7 Rinse each glass piece under clear running water when grinding is complete.
8 Wipe the surface of the grinder often with a wet sponge or cloth to prevent small glass chips from scratching the underside of the pieces being ground. Do not run bare hands across the grid work. Glass slivers are painful and difficult to remove.
9 To ensure proper performance of the glass grinder, clean thoroughly and rinse the water reservoir after each use.
NOTE :
Keep the pattern sheet dry during the grinding stage by placing it inside a vinyl sheet protector or cover it with an adhesive-backed clear vinyl.

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Scoring and Breaking S-Shaped Curves

May 8th, 2012

1 Trace pattern F (p21) onto the glass, placing one of the sides against the edge of the glass.
2 Score the most difficult cut first (S-shape).
3 Align the running pliers with the score line. Squeeze only hard enough to start the run. Repeat the procedure at the opposite end of the score line If both runs meet, use your hands to separate the resulting 2 pieces. If the “runs” do not meet, gently tap along the the score line (on the underside of the glass).
4 Score and break out remaining cuts.
Grozing:
The jagged edge of the glass along the score line can be smoothed by grozing.
1  Grasping the piece of glass firmly in one hand, place the combination pliers perpendicular to the edge of the glass and drag the serrated jaws along the jagged edge in an up-and-down motion. Repeat until the edge of the glass is smooth.

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How to cut outside curves, circles, and ovals in glass

May 5th, 2012

Cutting Outside Curves, Circles, and Ovals .
1 Trace pattern C (p20) onto the glass, leaving 1/2 in from the outside edge of the glass.
2 Make an initial score line that will separate the pattern piece from the sheet of glass. The score line will go from the outside edge of the glass and* upon reaching the circle will follow the perimeter of it for a short distance and then head off on a tangent to the edge of the glass (see line 1). Break away this piece.
3 The second score line will follow around the circle for a short distance (approximately l/6th of the perimeter) and then leave on a tangent to the outside edge (see line 2).
Break away this piece.
4 Repeat step 3, scoring and breaking the glass in a pinwheel fashion, until the circle shape has been formed (see lines 3, 4, 5, and 6).
5 Small jagged edges where a score line was started or ended can be ground off with a glass grinder or nibbled away with breaking or combination pliers.
6 To practise cutting outside curves and ovals, trace pattern D and E (p20) onto the-glass, leaving 1/2 in from the outside edge of the glass. Follow steps 2 to 5 above.

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Cut inside curves stained glass

May 4th, 2012

Cutting Inside Curves.
Inside curves are the most difficult cuts to score and break out successfully. Attempt the most difficult cut of a piece first, before cutting the piece away from the large sheet of glass.
1 Trace pattern B (pl9) onto the glass. Position the outer edges of the curve so they align with the edge of the glass.
2 Score the inside curve of the pattern piece but do not attempt to break it out at this time.
3 Make several smaller concave score lines (scallops) between the initial score line and the outside edge of the glass.
4 Using breaker or combination pliers, start removing the scallops, one at a time, beginning with the one closest to the edge of the glass. Use a pulling action with the pliers rather than a downward motion. Remember to position the jaws of the pliers at either end of the score line and not in the middle.
5 Continue to break away the scallops until you reach the initial score line. Remove it and proceed to score and break away the pattern piece from the large piece.
NOTE:
The tapping method of running a score line can be used, with care, to break out stubborn pieces.

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How to cut squares and rectangles of art glass

May 3rd, 2012

Cutting Squares and Rectangles.
Because it is almost impossible to cut glass at a 90° angle, a series of straight scores and breaks is recommended when cutting square and rectangular pieces.
1 Trace pattern A (pl9) onto the glass, aligning one of the sides of the pattern with the edge of the glass.
2 Score along the other side of the pattern piece. Proceed to break the score line, using any method described previously.
3 Score and break any remaining cut required to achieve the shape of the pattern piece.

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Technique for break larger sheets of Art Glass

May 2nd, 2012

Breaking Larger Sheets of Art Glass.
1 Score the sheet of glass, using a straightedge as a guide for the cutter.
2 Align the score line with the edge of the worktable.
3 Grasping the glass firmly and using both hands, raise the end of the sheet, approximately 1 in from the surface of the table. The opposite end of the sheet must still be in contact with the table.
4 With a swift, downward motion, snap off the end piece of glass.

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Technique for cut stained glass

May 1st, 2012

A Last Resort Technique for Difficult to Break Glass Pieces.
Tapping underneath a score line.
NOTE: Tapping a score line may cause small chips and fractures along the score line and should be done only as a last resort on difficult-to-break pieces. Here’s how to do it.
1 Hold the glass close to the surface of the worktable. Using the ball at the end of the cutter, gently strike the glass from the underside, directly underneath the score line. Once the score begins to “run,” continue tapping ahead of the “run” until it reaches the other end of the score line.
2 With your hands or a pair of pliers, separate the glass into 2 pieces.

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Technique for make a straight cut glass

April 30th, 2012

A Userful technique for making a straight cut.
Scoring with corked-back straightedge.
1 Mark the line to be cut and position the straightedge parallel and approximately 1/8 in from the line.
2 Holding the straightedge firmly on the surface of the glass, make the score line by pulling the cutter toward your body.
3 Break the score line, using the method you feel most comfortable with (ppl8 and 21).

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How to Break Glass on a Score Line

April 27th, 2012

Glass can also be broken using running pliers. This works for breaking straight lines and slight curves and is also useful for starting a break at either end of a score line. If you use metal running pliers, the slightly concave jaw must be placed on the topsicTe of the glass and the convex jaw on the underside. If you use plastic running pliers, position the jaw with the 2 outside “teeth” or ridges on the top side of the glass.
Using running pliers:
1 Position the running pliers so that the score line is centered and the glass is partially inside the jaws, approximately 1/2 in to 3/4 in.
2 Gently squeeze the handles and the score will “run” (travel), causing the glass to break off into 2 pieces. If the “run” does not go the full length of the score line, repeat the procedure at the other end of the score line.
Using breaking pliers or combination pliers:
Breaking pliers have 2 identical flat, smooth jaws that can be placed on either side of the glass. Combination pliers have a flat top jaw and a curved bottom jaw-both are serrated.
1 Position the pliers perpendicular to the score line and as close as possible without touching it Start at either end of the score line (not the middle).
2 Use an out-and-downward pulling motion on the pliers to break the glass.
3 When using 2 sets of pliers to break apart 2 smaller pieces of glass, place the pliers on the glass on either side of the score line and opposite to each other. Hold one set of pliers steady and use an out-and-downward pulling motion with the other set to separate the glass piece.

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How to Cut Glass

April 26th, 2012

How to Cut Glass.
Cutting (scoring and breaking) glass properly is a learned technique. Use 3mm float glass (windowpane glass) to practise cutting flow and amount of pressure to exert. Draw patterns A, B, C, D, E, and F (ppl9-21) on windowpane glass and practise the techniques of scoring and breaking before starting a project.
1 Wear safety glasses and a work apron. Stand in an upright position before the worktable.
2 Work on a clean, level, non-skid work surface covered with newspaper.
3 Place the glass smooth side up, on which the pattern has been traced with the marker.
4 Hold the cutter in your writing hand perpendicular to the glass, not tilted to the left or the right. Run the cutter away from your body and inside the pattern lines, applying steady pressure as you score.
See photographs below for different styles of cutters. Carbide steel wheel cutters will last for many years as opposed to disposable cutters.
5 Start and finish at an edge of the glass. Do not stop or lift your cutter from the glass surface before the score is completed. Use a fluid motion, applying constant, even pressure.
6 Never go over a score line a second time.
7 Grasp the glass with a hand on each side of the score line, thumbs parallel to the score, knuckles touching. Roll wrists up and outward, breaking the glass along the scored line.
Left: Disposable cutter held in traditional manner. The cutter rests between the index and middle fingers with the ball of the thumb placed to push the cutter along. The wheel must be lubricated before each score and wears out quickly.
Second: Oil-fed cutter held in traditional manner. If wheel and housing wear, they can be replaced.
Third: Pistol grip cutter held in palm of hand with the thumb resting on top of the barrel and index finger guiding cutter head.
Fourth: Pencil-style cutter, oil-fed, and held as a pencil.
To increase the probability of a good score and prolong the life of the glass cutter:
• Make sure the surface of the glass is clean and free of any debris.
• Score on the smoothest side of the glass.
• Lubricate the wheel of the glass cutter before each score. If a self-oiling cutter is being used, it will oil itself-but check occasionally to ensure that there is oil in the reservoir. Wipe away any small glass fragments that may have collected on the cutter wheel.
• Keep the cutter wheel covered when not in use.
In the above photo-left: score line with too much pressure; right: score line with correct pressure.

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