Sarava Resto Bar and Garden is a wonderful hidden gem of a restaurant hidden away in Jose Ignacio that is a must to visit if you go to Uruguay.
Please visit restaurant punta del este.
A cool, elegant yet rustic space located in the gastronimical zone of Arenas of Jose Ignacio, Punta del Este, Uruguay. Sarava is situated in the sand dunes and forest a few metres from Laguna Escondida, the menu has an exquisite combination of Italian, French and Basque cuisine. Bilingual staff will also be serving a selection of some of the best wines South America has to offer.
Great care has been taken with the lighting at Sarava to provide a soft cool ambience, and with both local and international DJs playing a mix of downtempo, chillout and deep house throughout the night. After dinner you can enjoy an evening under the stars next to the fire in the Bar Garden. This year will be the third season and there have been many improvements to the ambience, garden and menu. If you are looking for a night out in Jose Ignacio, Sarava Resto Bar and Garden is the place to be and to be seen.
A nice mix of European and Latin clientele frequent the restaurant, and the events and parties that are held during the summer are not to be missed under any circumstances.
Sarava Resto Bar and Garden can be found on Ruta 10, KM 185 on the road to Laguna Garzon. Head past the roundabout for Jose Ignacio towards Laguna Garzon, and five minutes up the coast road turn left when at the marker for KM 185. Follow the road into the woods and you will find Sarava on the left tucked away in the pine trees on the sand for a night you will not forget. Sarava!

ALUMINUM FOIL MODELING
Aluminum foil can he rolled up and pressed into animal shapes.
Add wings (o aluminum foil animals and hugs the same way that you added them to the dough hug.

Bend pipe cleaners into the shape ol wings. See Picture. Clue tissue paper over the pipe cleaners. Stick the wings into the hug.
When the clay has dried for about a day, paint it with tempera paint. Cover the colors with shellac.
Try making birds, butterflies, and spiders in the same way.

Mix flour, salt, and alum in a bowl. Slowly mix in water. When the dough is thick and solt like modeling clay, it is ready to use.
Koll some of it into a ball, and shape it like the hug in the picture.
Cut up pipe cleaners for legs and feelers. Stick them into the sides of the douth bug.

Doodle Bugs of Dough and Foil.
Materials
• 2 cups of flour
• 1 cup of salt
• water (between 5 and i of a cup)
• a bowl
• 2 tablespoons of powdered alum (you can buy it in a drugstore)
• pipe cleaners
• glue
• tempera
• shellac
• tissue paper

Hit by bit, cut awav the out-side edge ol the soap until you reach the   lines. When you carve, hold the knife edge away from your body. Don’t try to cut away big chunks, just cut a little at a time.
Round out the top of the turtle’s back with the knife. With a pointed stick vou can make dents for the turtle’s eyes and mark lines on its shell.
When you finish carving, smooth the sides by wetting the snap and rubbing it with your fingers.
Paint the turtle with tempera.
You can carve many other animals out of soap. Remember it is easier to carve the animals if vou first draw a picture on the soap.

A turtle carved from SOAP
1. Scrape any lettering from the sides of a bar of soap.
2. Lay the soap on paper and trace around it.
3. Draw the top view ol a turtle (see Picture) inside the soap outline on the paper.
4. Put a piece of carbon paper between the drawing and the soap, and trace over the lines of the picture. This will make a carbon copy on the soap.

A turtle carved from SOAP
Materials
a bar of soap
a paring knife
paper and a pencil
tempera paints
carbon paper
a pointed stick

DRIFTWOOD MOBILES
Tic small pieces of driftwood to each other with picture wire. See picture. Then tie a longer piece of picture wire to the center of the top piece of driftwood. Make sure the pieces balance. Hang the mobile in a window or a doorway.

COAT HANGER MOBILE
Materials
a wire coat hange
string
heavy construction or cardboard
Pull a wire coat hanger into the shape shown in the picture.
Cut different shapes like stars, circles, and triangles out of construction paper or cardboard.
Tie strings to the paper shapes and hang them from the coat hanger.
Hang the coat-hanger mobile by a string in a window or doorway.

Modeling clay craft
A toothpick will also hold the head to the body of a clay monkey. Bond pipe cleaners for the legs and the tail. The ears are made of cardboard or felt.

A toothpick will hold the head to the body of a clay elephant. The trunk is made out of an empty tooth-paste tube or a pipe cleaner. Add ears made of cardboard or felt, and tusks and tail made of pipe cleaners or paper. Set the elephant’s body on legs made of spools.

Modeling the figure in clay
For a long-necked giraffe, you will also need a clay head and a clay body. The neck can be a pencil. Pipe cleaners will do for the legs and tail. And pipe cleaner bits, paper, or toothpicks can be used for the horns.

A CLAY ZOO
You can stick all sorts of odds and ends in clay to make funny animals.
You can add animal parts made of pipe cleaners, yarn, toothpicks, empty tooth-paste tubes, empty lipstick tubes, empty spools, cardboard, felt, or almost anything.
You can make a clay lion with two balls of clay one for the body and one for the head. Make the neck out of a tooth-paste cap. Bits of pipe cleaner or yarn can be used for the tail and the lion’s mane. Toothpicks or spools make good legs.

Make your own pendant
Press a piece of clay into the shape you want. Before you let the clay harden, put a hole through it for the cord.
Paint the clay piece and put the cord through the hole. The cord must be long enough for the pendant to hang around your neck.

Craft Pins and Brooches
Press a piece of clay into the shape you want. Let it harden. If you wish, add a shiny pebble or a shell to the clay before it gets hard.
Glue a safety pin to the back of the clay. Paint the clay and let it dry before covering with shellac.

Press a piece of clay into the shape you want the tiepin to be. Let the clay harden.
Glue a large paper clip to the back of the clay piece.
Decorate it with tempera paints. When the paint is dry, cover the tiepin with shellac.

How to make clay jewelry
Materials
hardening clay (there are several kinds, including powders that are mixed with water and clay that can be baked in your mother’s oven)
all-purpose glue
a large paper clip for tiepin
safety pins for pins and brooches
cord for pendants
shellac

The top of the howl will he wider than the sides if you put on a longer coil. It will he narrower if you put on a shorter coil.
A coil can also he used for a handle on the side of the howl.
Paint the howl with a mixture of tempera and some detergent. When the paint is dry, cover it with shellac.

Roll a long sausage or coil out of another hall of clay. Bend it around the edge of the circle of clay. See Picture. .Smooth the pieces together.
Roll another coil in the same way and stick it on top of the first coil. Then add another and another. Smooth the pieces together as you make the sides of the howl taller.

A CLAY BOWL MADE WITH ROLLS.
hardening clay
detergent
a saucer or a cardboard circle
tempera paint
an old sheet or a piece of cloth
shellac
Lay cloth on a table or on the floor.
Flatten a big lump of clay. Put a saucer or a cardboard circle on top of the flat clay. Cut awav the clav around the edge of (he saucer. See Picture. The circle of clav that is left will be the bottom of the bowl.

Craft bowls.
Work your fingers out and up to make the sides of the how] thinner.
When the howl is shaped as you want it, smooth the inside and the outside.
You can stick a thin roll of clay to the outside of the howl for a handle.

Painting the clay bowl
Now you are ready to paint the bowl.
Mix tempera with about a spoonful of liquid detergent. Clay is oily, and the detergent helps the paint to stick to the bowl. If the paint does not stick well, add more detergent.
When the paint is dry, cover the bowl with shellac to protect the paint.

A CLAY BOWL
Materials
hardening clay
tempera paint
liquid detergent
shellac
an old sheet or a piece of cloth
Lay cloth on table or floor.
Put a large lump of clay on it. Squeeze and mash the clay to get rid of air holes and soft spots, and roll it into a ball.
Punch a hole in the center of the ball.
Use your fingers to make the hole larger and larger until the clay is shaped like a bowl.

Make craft clay people
Squeeze and mash the elay before you roll it into halls and sausage-shaped pieces so that you get rid of any air holes and soft spots.
Stick the balls and sausage-shaped pieces together to make a body. Smooth the clay where the pieces join.
Use the pointed stick and bits of clay to shape the parts of the face and to mark the lines for clothes.
The clay person can be standing, sitting, lying down, or crawling. You may have to lean him against another piece of clay or a stick if he is standing.

How To Make clay people.
Materials
modeling clay
a pointed stick or a pencil
Clay people of different sizes are made of pieces of clay that are shaped into halls and rolls.
The bodies of grown-up people are longer and thinner than those of babies and small children, and the shoulders of grownups are wider. Grownups also have longer arms and legs.
The pictures on this page show how manv halls and sausage-shaped pieces of clay are needed for the different kinds of bodies.

Add extra clay to the face to build up the chin and the cheeks. Make hair marks with a pointed stick. Add pieces and lumps of clay to make more hair for the heads of girls.

Two ears can be shaped out of other pieces of clay. Place them on the sides of the head just helow the line. Smooth the clay alter you stick on the ears and the nose.
Roll out a worm-shaped piece of clay, and cut pieces off for the eyebrows and the lips.

THE FACE
The corners of the mouth and the eyes turn up on a happy face and down on a sad face. Rig, round eyes give any face a look of surprise.
Draw a faint line around the head, halfway down from the top of it. On this line mark the two eyes with the pointed stick.
Shape a lump of clay for the nose and add it to the face, between the eyes and just below the line.

Mold a clay head
Materials
modeling clay
a pointed stick or a pencil
THE HEAD
Take a big lump of clay and knead it like dough to get rid of any air holes or soft spots. Roll it into a hall for the head.
Roll a smaller hall of clay for the neck. Stick it to the head. Smooth the clay where the two halls are stuck together so that the line between them does not show. Flatten the bottom of the neck so that the head will stand.

AN ELEPHANT
pieces from this for the legs. Stick them on the body. The rest of the sausage shape is the trunk. Stick it on the head.
Smooth the clay where the pieces are attached to each other.
Two tiny balls can be rolled out to make tusks. Mark the eyes with a pointed stick.

How To Mold a Sausage Dog
To make a sausage dog:
Make a long roll for the body.
Make a ball for the head and four small rolls for the legs. Stick them on the body.
A tiny roll can be the tail and a smaller one can be the nose. Two flattened balls can he the ears.
Mark the nose, eyes, and mouth with the pointed stick.

HOW TO MOLD
To make an elephant:
Roll two big balls, one for the body and the other for the trunk and the legs.
Roll three smaller balls, all the same size, for the head and the two ears. Flatten the two balls for the ears, and stick them on the head. Stick head to body.
Roll the ball for the trunk and the legs into a sausage shape. Rreak four short

Mold a Penguin
Stick the head on top of the body.
Flatten the other two halls until they are shaped like the two wings in the picture. Stick the wings on the body.
Roll two smaller balls for the feet, and flatten them. Stick them in place.
A tiny hall can be pointed to make a beak. Stick it in the middle of the face.
Smooth the clay where the pieces are stuck to each other so that the lines where they join do not show.
Use a pointed stick to make dents for the eyes.

How To Mold a Penguin
BEGIN WITH A BALL
Materials
modeling clay
a pointed stick or a pencil.
To make a penguin:
Roll a large round hall of clay for the body.
Roll three small halls, all the same size, for the head and the wings.

Now roll the can over a sheet of paper, and the rope will print the shapes. Roll the can in the paint each time hefore you roll it over the paper. You can print the design as manv times as von wish.
Try making other designs with felt or wool cutouts.

Twist rope around the can and glue it in place. See Picture. You might wish to cut the rope into a number of pieces and glue each one to the can. Yon can twist each piece to whatever shape you wish hefore von glue it in place.
Make sure that the glue is dry hefore you begin printing with the can roller.
I’ut some tempera or poster paint in the pie tin. Koll the can in the paint. The paint will stick to the rope, but not to the can.

PRINTING WITH TIN CANS
a tin can
tempera or poster paint
rope
a pie tin or a deep plate
glue
tape
paper
Out of a tiu can you can make a roller that prints. It will make fine designs on paper for gift wrapping.
Cover the jagged edge at the open end of the can with tape to protect yourself from cuts.

Print with Other Things
Another kind of potato printer can be made by leaving the picture flat and cutting away everything but the picture. Now when you put paint on the potato, only the picture will print.
You can use each half of the potato for a different kind of potato printer.
Try printing with different-sized corks, spools, bottle caps, erasers, and other things.

Print Simple Shapes First
Cover the flat side of the potato witli poster paint. Push it against the paper to make it print.
You can print the picture as many times as you wish, if you cover the potato with paint before each printing.

Learning how to draw Printing with Potatoes
Materials
a large potato
a paring knife
paper
poster paints
Cut a potato in hall.
Mark a square, a circle, a diamond, an “x”. or some other simple picture on the flat side ol one ol the halves. II you draw a letter ol the alphabet, make it backward so that it will print right.
Cut away some of the potato inside your design. See Picture. Now when you put paint on the potato, only the Hal edge around the design will print.

Here are some ideas you can use for your funny face.
Now put a nose on the up-and-down line, and some cars on the ends of the side-to-side line. Then draw two eves on the side-to-side line, and evehrows a little above the eyes. Then put a mouth a little below the nose. Add some hair or a moustache or glasses and a pipe.

How to draw a funny
It’s easv to draw a fuinny face start with the shape of a circle or an oval.
Then draw two light lines, one through the middle from the top to the bottom, the other through the middle from side to side.

After the glue is dry, mix some plaster of Paris and pour it into the cracks between the pieces. You can push and mold the plaster of Paris into the holes and cracks. Let it dry for a day. Then cut off the extra paper.
Tile mosaics can be used for hot plates, tray decorations, or pictures for the wall.
If you have enough tile pieces, you can decorate a whole table top with them.

When you have arranged the pieces the way you want them, glue each one to the paper. The easiest way is to glue only a part of the picture at a time. Cover a part with glue and stick the tile pieces clown. You can move the pieces around in the wet glue to gel them in the right place.

Put several tiles in a plastic bag. Hammer the bag to break the tiles into pieces.
Draw a picture on heavy paper. Arrange the broken lile pieces on your drawing so that they make the same picture. Use tiles of different colors for different parts of your picture.

How to do mosaic
Materials
old pieces of floor tile
a piece of heavy paper
plaster of Paris
blunt scissors
a plastic bag
a hammer
glue
Pictures made of pieces of colored stone, glass, or tile are called “mosaics.” You can make one with broken tiles. Ask the salesman at a floor-covering store for any unwanted floor tiles of the kind that will break. He will probably give you some.

Put the pieces of paper on a large sheet of plain paper. Move them around until they make the kind of picture you want.
Paste them in place.
If you wish, you can add lines with crayon, paint, or colored yarn.

PICTURES made from PAPER
Tear up lots of pieces of different kinds of paper—newspapers, colored drawing paper, paper bags, and notebook paper. The pieces can be of any size.

Draw a pencil line around the shadow.
Take the paper off the wall and cut along the line.
Paste the shadow picture on colored paper so that it stands out clearly.
You can make a scrapbook with shadow pic-lures of all your friends.

Materials
white paper
colored paper
a flashlight or reading lamp
blunt scissors
a thumbtack
a pencil
paste
Tack a sheet of white paper on the wall.
Have a friend sit in front of the paper. The shadow ol his head should tail on the paper when yon shine a light on him.

Crafts paint brushes
You can collect the pieces for your collage anywhere—in the woods, at the edge of a river, or even in a junk yard.
One collage could be made ol nuts and bark and twigs and leaves and pieces of grass. Another could be made of cotton, buttons, lace, and ribbon.
Whatever things you choose, put them on a big sheet of paper. Move them around until they make the kind of picture you like best. Now paste, or staple;, or tape them to the paper. Hang your collage on the wall.

You can make pictures out ol things that are smooth, slippery, knobby, prickly, hard, soft, tickly, scratchy, buinpv. or ripply.
Or yon can make a picture out of many different pieces of the same kind of thing, like bits of yarn or pieces of cloth.
These pictures that are Inn to touch and fun to see are called “collages.”

FUNNY SPLASH DESIGNS
Materials
2 pieces of white paper
tempera or poster paint
a rolling pin
Splash some paint of different colors on one sheet of paper. Put another piece of paper on top of it. Roll the paper with a rolling pin. Lift up the top piece of paper to see what kind of picture you have!

Crafts to paint
How To Make a Dough Picture
Now you can start building your picture on vour pieces of cardboard. Shape each part of the picture with your fingers before Mm slick it to the cardboard.
You can use brown dough for a tree trunk. Use green for leaves. Add extra dough where you want the bumps in your picture to stand up more. If you wish, you can put seeds, yarn, or other odds and ends into the dough as part of the picture. Let the dough dry.

How To Make The Dough Paint
Mix salt and Hour with a few spoonfuls of water. Keep adding water, a spoonful at a time, until the mixture is as soft as the dough your mother uses for eookies.
When the dough is just right, put some in each of your containers. Then add a spoonful of tempera to each container, and mix it in with the dough.

Craft paintings
PICTURES MADE OF BUMPY DOUGH
Materials
1 cup of flour
1 cup of salt water
tempera paints
several containers, one for each color of dough
a mixing bowl
a spoon
cardboard or heavy paper

If you use an ice-cream stick instead of a screen, rub your toothbrush against the ice-cream stick to make the paint spatter.
After you have covered the paper with spatters, pick up the leaf.
You can use the same leaf again and again on other sheets of paper. Or you can use any shapes you want like cutouts, flowers, and coins.

How to paint a picture
MAKING SPATTER PICTURES
Place a leaf on the paper. Dip your toothbrush in the saucer of paint.
Hold your screen over the paper and brush it. Paint will spatter on the paper except where the leaf is covering it. A screen with big holes will make big spatter spots. Small holes will make small spatter spots.

Custom paint pictures
SPATTER A PICTURE
Materials
• an old toothbrush • a saucer • a tree leaf • a sheet of paper • poster paints or ink    • a piece of screen or a flat stick
GETTING READY
Put old newspapers over the table where you plan to work, so that the paint won’t spatter on the table. Put on an apron or a smock.
Pour some poster paint or ink into a saucer. If you use poster paint, add water to it to make it thinner.

Paint can picture
TRY OTHER COLORS
Scratch out the main outline of your picture first. Then make parts of the picture stand out with little scratches put close together. Try wavy lines, wiggly lines, zigzag lines, wide lines, and tiny lines.
Trv other colors over dif-ferent kinds of colored paper.

Paint wallpapers
SCRATCH DRAWINGS
Did  you know  you could  make pictures In taking colors away from paper? Pictures made in tin’s backwards way are called etchings, or scratch drawings.
Cover one side of a piece ol white cardboard with layers ol black crayon. Color first one way, then another, then another, until none of the white cardboard shows through.
Take a nail, or a straight pin, or a paper clip, and scratch on the paper.

Paint colors picture
Using an Old Rag
You can paint with a rag made ot burlap or towel cloth just the way you paint with a sponge. But the marks of the rag will be different from those of a sponge.
For the most fun of all, try out all these ways ot painting on one picture.

Paint picture online
Using a Sponge
You can paint pictures with a sponge. Dip it in wet paint and touch it to the paper lightly. Notice that sponge marks look different from paintbrush marks. Now try pressing the sponge down hard. Then try rubbing it on the paper. Then try twisting the sponge as you press down on it.

Use Different Kinds of Paper
Rough paper or bumpy paper will make your paintings look different. Try painting on a rough paper towel, or on the ripply side of a cardboard carton, or on the scratchy side of an old piece of sandpaper.

Using an Old Toothbrush
Toothbrush bristles are stiffer than paintbrush bristles. So the pictures you paint with a toothbrush will show the brush strokes clearlv.

Paintbrush pictures
You can paint pictures with almost anything that puis marks on paper.
Using a Paintbrush
Keep a jar of water handy when vou paint with poster paints, tempera, or water colors. You can clean the brush in the water when yon change from one color to the next.
You can also use the water to make the color lighter. The more water you have on your brush, the thinner the color will be.

Add starch if mixture thickens
II the soapsuds thicken too much to paint with easily, add a little more starch when you are painting and beat it into the mixture with a spoon.
When von have finished your picture, let it dry King flat on the newspaper before von show it.

Paint on with fingers
Dip the colored soapsuds from the jar with your lingers and paint on some brown wrapping paper.
II you want a darker color, add more coloring until you get the shade you want.

Free pictures for kids
Materials
i cup of dry detergent, or a capful of liquid detergent
2 tablespoons of liquid starch
brown wrapping paper
poster paints or food coloring
an egg beater
a mixing bowl
an old newspaper
a spoon
Beat the detergent and the liquid starch with an egg beater in a mixing bowl. When it is like thick niarshmallow frosting, yon have beaten it enough. Now you have enough soapsuds for painting three or lour pictures.
II you want soapsuds of several different colors, put the mixture into different jars. Then add just a lew drops of color to the different jars and stir.
Put down a newspaper to work on.

When your picture is finished, let it dry. Ask your mother to help von press it with a warm iron to smooth out anv wrinkles in the paper. Finger-paint designs make beautiful wrapping paper for gifts.
Von can also finger-paint on things made of glass and plastic. If vou do. put shellac over your picture to protect it.

HOW TO FINGER PAINT
Shiny shelf paper is ihe best kind to finger-paint on.
Wet the paper in a pan of water or under a water faucet. Spread it out smoothly on the newspapers. If the paper gels too dry before von finish painting, sprinkle some more water on it.
Spoon some paint I mm the jar and put it on the paper.
Use your thumb and fingers for most of your picture. But also use the side of your hand and arm lor big. sweeping strokes. Use your finger tips and nails to make fine details.

Washable finger paint
GETTING READY
Finger painting is fun, but it can be messy, too. So before you start finger painting, put on a smock or apron, and cover the table or floor with newspapers where you plan to work.

FINGER PAINTING
With special finger paints, you can paint pictures with vonr lingers and hands instead of with a brush.
Finger paints are sold at art supply stores, stationery stores, variety stores, or dime stores. Or you can make your own finger paints by mixing starch and poster paint. Ask your mother to boil sonic laundry starch for you. Let it cool. Pour it into several jars, and mix a little poster paint with the starch a diller ent color in each jar.

How To Keep Chalk Pictures from Smearing
A good wav to take care of the chalk pictures you want to keep is to spray them with a special fluid called fixative. You can get fixative at almost any art supply store. Fixative becomes a film over the chalk and keeps it from smearing.

CHALK WITH WATER
You can make bold, bright pictures with chalk, too. First wet the paper. I ,el the extra water drip off the page. Then draw on the wet paper with the colored chalk. Be sure to spread new spa per s on your work space before you start painting with chalk in this way, for it can be messy.

CHALK PICTURES
Here are two different ways to make chalk pictures.
Dry Chalk
Put one chalk color on top of another. Then rub the chalk with your finger to blend the colors together. You’ll probably find that the colors you get are very soft and delicate looking.

How do you make color
Make the Color Light or Dark
Add water to tempera or poster paints to make a thinner color.
With oilier paints, chalk, or crayons, add a Little white to make a lighter color. To make a darker color, add a little black.

Making color
New Color Will Be
Red, blue, and yellow are called the primary colors. You can mix them to make all the other colors.
The colors you make from the three primary ones can be mixed to make still other colors. The chart also shows what colors you can make from them.

Make up color
When you want to mix colors to make new colors, try doing it first to be sure you are making the color you want. Mix them on a plate or on a try-out piece of paper.
You can also mix colors when you color with chalk or crayon. Just put one color on top of another color.
Tells you what color you will get when yon mix two colors together.

When you paint with tempera, you can use the colors that are in the jars. Or you can mix those colors to make new colors.
With only three colors red, blue, and yellow you can make any color you want.

Face masks
Materials
a paper plate
string
crayons
a paper bag
a piece of cardboard
Draw a face on a paper plate. Cut out the eyeholes and color the face.
Punch a small hole on each side of the face near the edge of the plate. These two holes should he a little higher than the eyeholes.
Tie a piece of string from one hole to the other. The string will go around  of your head to hold the mask in front of your face.
Instead of a paper plate,
you can use a piece of thin cardhoard.
or a large paper hag.
Add hair hv gluing bits of yarn to the top of your mask.

To Use Your Periscope in the Submarine
In the center of the conning tower cut a circle a little bigger than your periscope box. See Picture.
To make a periscope mount, take a piece of heavy cardboard. Cut a circle a little bigger than the one in the conning tower.
Set the periscope box on this circle and draw around the square box. Cut out.
Remove one mirror and slip the periscope into this circle mount. Replace mirror.
Put one end of the periscope through the hole in the conning tower, so that the mount is outside the box.
You can add all kinds of finishing touches. You can make a control panel on the inside of the conning tower. You can add an anchor, and even paint on a name.

Make Periscope
Stand box up with the “T” at the top. Place your triangle pattern along the bottom edge of the box, folded edge slanting upward. See Picture.
Draw a line on the box along the slant. Cut a slit on this line.
Around the corner from the top end of the slit, cut a window big enough to look through.
Place the triangle pattern at the top of the box, on the same side as the lower slit, folded side slanting down. See Picture. Draw a line along the slant. Cut a slit on this line.
Around the corner from the top slit draw and cut out a top window. This window must be on the opposite side of the box from the bottom window.
You will need mounts for your mirrors. Draw and cut out two pieces of cardboard as wide as the box and a little longer than the slant of your triangle pattern. Glue one mirror to each mount. See Picture.
Slide one mirror in the lower slit, looking-side up. Slide the other mirror in the top slit, looking-side down.

Make a Real Periscope
Materials
long wax-paper or a foil-paper box
a small piece of paper
a piece of tablet back or thin cardboard
tape, any kind will do
scissors
2 small pocket mirrors
Yon will need to know which end of your long box is the top. So mark a “T” for “top” at one end.
To make an important pattern that you will need, trace a square exactly the same size as the end of the box on a piece of paper. Cut out the square. Fold the square to make a triangle. See Picture.

Cut out the ends of cartons 1 and 2 where thev come together. These two cardboard pieces together with the cardboard you cut out to make the passagewax into the conning tower, will make a bow and stern.
Draw a cigar-shaped pattern on one piece ol cardboard. Cut it out. See Picture.
Trace around this pattern on the other three pieces ol cardboard. Cut them out.
Tape two pieces to the front for a bow. Tape points together.
Tape the other two pieces to Carton 4 for the stern. Tape [joints together.
Cut pieces ol heavy paper to cover the empty spaces at the bow and the stern. Tape the pieces of paper to the cardboard.
Tape all the cartons together, and you’ve built your submarine. The next page will tell you how to install a real periscope in the conning tower.

How To Make a Nose and Tail
To make a doorway into the conning tower, push Carton 4 against Carton 3. Draw a line where the top of 4 comes. That’s how high the doorway should be. Saw out or cut nut the part of Carton 3 below this line. Save this cardboard.
To make a hatch, or door, open top Haps of Carton 4.
To make a passageway into the conning tower, enl out the end ol Carton 1, next to Carton 3. Save this cardboard. See Picture.
fi. You now have a submarine. II von want to make it more streamlined like a real submarine, yon can add a cigar-shaped bow and stern. See the steps below.

First submarine
Make a Submarine
Materials
4 cardboard cartons 3 the same size and one large enough to sit in
pencil
blunt scissors
tape
a large piece of heavy paper like wrapping paper or a paper cleaning-bag
Here’s how you do it:
Place the large carton on end. Number it 3. This will he the conning tower. Place two cartons in front. Nnmher them  Place the last carton behind the conning tower. Number it 4. See Pictures.
Tape down the flaps and any loose ends of Cartons 1, 2, and 3. Several small pieces ol any kind of tape will do fine. Do not tape down Carton 4.

Houses crafts
How To Make Windows and Doors
Draw windows and doors on separate pieces of thin cardboard or stiff paper. The windows and doors can be any size you wish. They can be plain or fancy.
Cut out the windows and doors.
Trace around the cutout windows and doors on other pieces of stiff paper to make a second set exactly like the first.
Decide where you wish to have a door on your house. Pick up a pair ol doors thai arc exactly alike. Put one ol them inside the box, and the other one directly behind it on the outside of the box. Push one or two thumbtacks through the box to hold the door in place.
Do the same with the other windows and doors. The windows and doors can be moved if you wish.

Craft house
Materials
5 cardboard cartons, all the same size
thin cardboard or stiff paper
tempera or poster paint
tape
thumbtacks
You can change the style of this Add-a-Room House whenever vou wish.
1. Cut out the top from each carton.
2. Cover the rough edges with tape.
3. Arrange the cartons to form the kind of building you want. Arrange them one way to make a
town house with a two-car garage. Pile them up to make a skyscraper. Spread them out to make a rambling ranch house. If the cartons slip out of place, you can tack pieces of cardboard over the seams.

Paper craft castle
Cut notches around top of box to make parapet.
Poke two holes in door piece so it can be used as drawbridge.
Cut out large door on side of carton.
Poke two holes above door.
Tape door piece to bottom of box.
Cut notches for parapets. Tape four towers to corners.
Make four towers from thin cardboard. Tape one edge of a tower to side of carton, near a corner. Bend in half circle and tape to other side. Tie nut to end of string. Push other end through bottom of one hole in drawbridge and follow arrow. Tie other nut to other end of string.
Paint or color the castle. Color a piece of cardboard or large stiff paper. Cut out and place under castle.

Craft castle
Materials
a cardboard carton • stiff paper • tape
crayons or paints • string • scissors
2 metal nuts
Long ago, knights and beautiful ladies lived in big castles with thick walls and tall towers. Each castle was surrounded by a deep water ditch, or moat. The only way to enter or leave was to cross a drawbridge.

Craft pipe cleaner
Start wrapping another pipe cleaner around the body just under the arms. This pipe cleaner will become one of the doll’s legs. Bend the end of each leg for a foot.
Paint a face on the cork. You can add hair by pasting on some yarn or string. To make clothes, twist crepe-paper strips around the pipe-cleaner body.
The people will stand up if you paste or staple the feet to a piece of cardboard. You can also make them sit or lie down.

A PIPE CLEANER
Materials
a round cork bead or a small round cork for the head
3 pipe cleaners for the body
crepe paper for clothes
scissors
paste or glue
paints
yarn and string
a piece of cardboard
1. Push one end of a pipe cleaner through the hole in a cork bead. If it does not go through easily, make the hole bigger by twisting a nail in it.
2. Bend the top of the pipe cleaner to keep it from slipping through the cork.

Craft band
Comes The Band!
You can make a military hand out of your soldiers. Just give them musical instruments to hold.
Out of these
Cottage cheese carton, paper clip, paper circles, toothpick and clay.
Make these
bass drum, trombone, cymbals, baton.

Parade soldiers
Materials
an empty toilet paper roll for each soldier
a pipe cleaner for the arms
crayons or poster paints
something like a nail to make armholes
Color or paint a soldier’s face, a hat, and a parade uniform on each paper roll. See Picture.
Punch holes for the arms on each side of the roll. The holes should he made at the line where the soldier’s head and uniform meet. Push a pipe eleaner through the holes.
Bend the pipe cleaner arms to make elhows and hands.
You can put a toothpick rifle in your soldiers hand, or give him a paper flag.

Table hideaway
A table turned on its side makes a good hideaway. Cover it with an old sheet or blanket.
Other secret corners can be made in the basement or attic with wood planks or insulation-board scraps.
When you have made your hideaway, think of some password. Then, don’t let anyone in unless they first give you the password.

Manual wall screen
A folding screen wall
If you don’t have an old folding screen to use, make your own. Find several large cardboard boxes. Cut the boxes open and spread them flat. Tape them together, and refold them into a zigzag screen.

Cheap crafts
A carton hideaway
A cardboard carton, large enough to walk into, makes a good hideaway. Turn it so that the box opens on its side. Let one of the flaps be the door. Tape the other one closed.

Easy craft ideas
build a secret hideaway
Here are some ways you can make a secret hideaway at home.
You can make one in an unused corner of your basement, garage, attic, or game room. Every corner has two walls. Build a third wall and you have a hideaway a crepepaper wall
Hammer a nail in each of the corner walls, as high up as you want the crepe-paper wall to be. Tie a string from one nail to the other. Hang crepe-paper strips from the string to the floor. You can fasten them at the bottom with another string stretched between the walls. Be sure to leave one or two strips loose at the bottom so that you have a door.

Crafts for teens
SANDPAPER BLOCKS
Materials
2 easy-to-hold building blocks
scissors
coarse sandpaper
thumbtacks or glue
Cut two pieces of sandpaper, each a little larger than the side of a block. Thumbtack pieces of sandpaper to blocks, or paste in place.
Rub, rub . . . swish, swish.

RATTLER
Materials
a round salt carton
tape
some dry beans, rice, or pebbles
Pour some beans into the salt spout of vour carton. Close the spout and seal it with tape.
Then make a small hole in the center of each end of the salt carton. Push a stick that is as long as two salt cartons through both holes. Put tape at the places where the stick goes through to hold it tightly. Add a tassel.
You can decorate it with crayons.
People in orchestras call rattlers like these “maracas.”

Craft ideas kids
TOM-TOM
Materials
a large, round cereal carton
string
something to punch holes
clothespins
Remove the lid from a round cereal carton. Just below the open end, punch a hole in the side of the carton. Punch another hole directly opposite the first. Run a string through the holes and tie the ends. You can now hang the box around your neck. Put the lid back on the carton.
If you wish, you can decorate the cereal box with poster paints. You can also tape the lid to the carton to keep it on.
Use clothespins for drumsticks.

Children craft
BONGO DRUM
Materials
a popcorn or potato-chip can
an auto tire inner tube
string
scissors
If you don’t have an inner tube, you can gel one al a filling station.
Cut a circle from the old inner tube, larger than the end of your potato-chip can. Take the lid off the can.
Put the rubber circle over the open end of the can. Fasten it with a string tied tightly. If you can stretch the rubber while you tie it on the can, the drum will have a higher pitched sound.
You play bongo drums by slapping them with an open hand and fingers.
Other bongo drums can be made from fruit-juice cans and coffee tins.

A Hummer
Materials
• an empty paper-roll tube
• wax paper    • a rubber band    • crayons or paints
Cut out a circle of wax paper larger than the end of a paper-role tube. Put the paper circle over the end of the tube. Fasten it in place with a rubber band.
Sing O-O-O-O into the open end of the tube.
You can decorate the hummer in any way you like with crayons or paints.
Hum On A Comb
Wrap a sheet ol (issue paper around a comb and hum into it. You can feel the paper vibrate against your lips. It tickles a little when you hum, but it makes a good band instrument.

A Xylophone
Materials
• empty pop bottles or water glasses
• a knife, a fork, or a spoon for a mallet
Collect several old pop bottles. It is best if they are all the same size and shape. Fill one bottle with water nearly to the top. Fill the second one halfway. Put just a little water in the third. Put other amounts of water in the other bottles.
Now hit each bottle gently with a piece of kitchen silver.
You can change the sound of each bottle by changing the amount of water in it. By experimenting with different amounts of water, you will be able to sound notes in tunc with a piano.
If you do not have pop bottles, ask your mother if she will let you use some water glasses.

A Triangle
Materials
• a short length of metal pipe or a horseshoe
• a string    • a knife, a fork, or a spoon for a mallet
A triangle, like a gong, is held by a string. Use a piece of string three times as long as the pipe. Run (he siring through the pipe and tie the ends ol the string together.
Hold it as shown in the picture. Strike it with a knife, a fork, or a spoon.
If you use a horseshoe instead of a pipe for the triangle, tie only one end of the string to the curve of the horseshoe. You can then strike the horseshoe as it hangs from the string.

MAKING MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
Bang! Clink! Ping! Ting!
These are the sounds made by gongs, triangles, and xylophones.
A Gong
Materials
• a lid of a large popcorn or potato-chip can    • a knife or a spoon for a mallet    • a nail    • a hammer    • a string
Ask your father to help you pound two nail holes into the rim of the lid. They should be a few inches apart.
Thread a string through the holes. Tie the ends of the string together. You can hold the gong by this string. See Picture.
Use a knife or a spoon as the mallet for striking the gong, You might want to wrap a strip of cloth around the hitting end of the mallet to make a softer tone when you hit the gong.

Bookplates
Materials
a roll of brown paper tape
scissors
paints and brush
a pencil
Bookplates are labels that you paste in your books to tell people that the books belong to you.
Cut a piece of tape as wide as your hand. Leave a big place in the middle for your name, and draw a design around it. Paint the design on the bookplate with bright colors. Carefully print or write your name on it.
Wet the back of your bookplate and stick it on the inside cover of your book.

Funny bookmarks
Materials
an ice-cream stick or a piece of stiff cardboard
colored crepe paper for face and body
bits of colored paper
paste
Cut a narrow strip of crepe paper and wind it on a slant round and round your stick or piece of cardboard. Paste down the end.
On a separate piece of paper, draw eyes, ears, nose, and mouth. Cut them out and paste them in place for a face. A funny beard, glasses, earrings, a big tie, or a hat can be added. Cut out a dress or suit and paste it on.
Or make cartoon bookmarks by cutting out pictures of your favorite funny paper characters and pasting them on the cardboard or stick.

Animal bookmarks
Materials
• cardboard   • crayons
• scissors       • a pencil
Cut a strip of cardboard about three fingers wide and a little shorter than your book.
Draw an animal with a big face on one end of the cardboard strip. Color it and cut around it. The body of the animal is the rest of the cardboard.
Slip the bookmark between the pages of your book at the place that you want to mark.

A FISH TO HANG UP
Materials
construction  paper
ruler
blunt scissors
string
1. With a ruler draw a straight line two inches away from the long side of a piece of construction paper. Then take your scissors, cut along the line you have drawn, and you’ll have a long strip of paper.
2. Fold it in half, and crease il. Then one inch from one end of the strip, cut through the paper from the side halfway across, as shown in the picture. On the other end, cut halfway across the paper from the other side.
3. Now bring both ends together, and fit the cuts together. The fan at the end forms the fish’s tail.
4. Poke a small hole in the fish’s back, and push a piece of string through the hole. Knot the end of the string so it won’t pull through the paper. You can draw eyes and mouth on your fish, if you wish. Then hang it up.
You can make many fish of different colored paper, and hang them in your room.

boomerang
Materials
2 ice-cream sticks
a thread or a rubber band

Cross two ice cream sticks the way the sticks are crossed in the picture. Tie them in this position with a thread or a rubber hand.
Toss the boomerang with a flick of your wrist so that it spins. It will come back to you.

spin top, spin!
Materials
a sharpened pencil stub
a nail to punch a hole
scissors
cardboard
crayons

Draw a circle on cardboard. You might use the rim of a drinking glass for a pattern. Cut the circle out.
Decorate the circle with bright crayon designs.
Punch a hole in the center of the circle with a nail.
Stick the sharpened pencil stub through the hole just as far as it shows in the Picture. Now you have a top that will spin.

Pinwheels
Cut the paper on the lines but not inside the circle.
Bend each of the corners marked with an “X” in Picture 3 into the center of the circle.
Put a straight pin through the four corners and the center of the paper. Then put the pin into the eraser on the end of a pencil.
Now the pinwheel should spin in the wind, when you blow on it, or when you run with it.
Different decorations on a pinwheel will make new and interesting patterns as it spins.

A Pinwheel
Materials
a sheet of paper
a straight pin
a pencil with an eraser
a ruler
scissors

The paper that makes a pinwheel must be square. You can be sure it is a square by folding it before you cut it. See Picture 1.
Next, draw lines from corner to corner of the paper with a ruler.
Draw a small circle about (he size <>1 a penny in the center of the paper where the lines cross. See Picture 2.

STRINGING SPOOLS
Materials
empty spools, any size will do
yarn or cord
tempera paint and brush
shellac

Paint your spools bright colors. Use shellac to keep them shiny.
Decide whether you want to make a spool necklace or a spool belt. Cut a piece of yam or cord. Be sure it’s a little longer than the amount you need to go around your neck or waist, so you’ll have some extra for tying.
To keep the spools from sliding off, tie a large knot at one end of the yam. String the spools. When all the spools are on, tie the two yarn ends together.
For some unusual spool stringing, try using buttons or heads between the spools. You can also make colorful necklaces and belts by using buttons or beads or both.

SQUIRMY
Materials
empty spools
yarn or string
poster paint and a brush
shellac
a button, a milk-bottle cap, or a clothespin

To find out how much string or yarn you need for Squirmy, put your spools in a straight line. You will need string that is about three or four times as long as your row of spools.
Leave a small piece at one end of your string for a tail, and then tie a big knot. The knot will keep the spools from falling off.
String your spools. If you have beads, string them between the spools. Leave some room on the string for Squirmy to move around about as much room as two spools would take up and tie another big knot. This knot will keep the spools from sliding off the front.
The string that’s left will be your puller. If you want a good puller, tie a button or elothes-pin or milk-bottle cap to the end of the puller string.
You might paint or decorate Squirmy. If you shellac it, the colors will stay bright.’

LOOP the LOOP PAPER PLAN
Materials
a sheet of heavy paper
a pencil
blunt scissors
a paper clip
crayons .

Here’s a paper airplane that will fly in circles.
1. Fold the paper in half the long
2. Draw an airplane with wings and a tail on it. See Picture.
3. Draw a line about an inch away from the fold on each side the full length of the paper. See Picture.
4. Cut out the airplane, but do not cut on the fold.
5. Spread out the airplane and color. You can draw airplane markings near each wing tip.
6. Refold your airplane. Now fold each wing down along the line drawn on it.
7. Add a paper clip to the nose. You can change the way your
airplane flies by changing the wing shape and putting more than one paper clip on the nose.

PAPER SAILING SHIP
Materials
a sheet of paper, a little larger than this page
wax crayons
blunt scissors
Make a hat, pull on the corners, and surprise a waterproof boat.
1. Color a sheet of paper on both sides with crayons to waterproof.
2. Fold it in half the long way.
3. Open the paper and fold it in half the short way.
4. Take one of the two corners along the fold, and fold it into the center crease. Do the same with the other corner.
5. Turn up the end flaps.
6. Cut the corners off the flaps, and you have a hat.
7. Press the end folds of the hat together so that the middle creases become the outside folds.
8. Fold the bottom points up in the peak.
9. Again press the end folds together so that the middle creases become the outside folds, as in Step 7.
10. At the top of your folded square, three corner points come together to form one corner. Hold the two outside ones and pull them away from the middle point. Press down on the sides to complete your boat.

Animal crafts
Cork Floaters

Materials
a large cork stopper
blunt scissors
cardboard
a thumbtack
crayons

Use only half of a cork stopper for each floater. Ask Mother or Dad to cut the cork stopper in half. You can make two floating toys out of one cork.
Lay one cork half on its flat side. In the center of the rounded side, cut a small slit. This slit will hold the cardboard cutout.
Draw a duck on cardboard with a small tab at the bottom. The tab will fit in the slit of the cork.
Color the duck on both sides with wax crayons to waterproof it. Cut it out and stick the tab in the slit. Stick a thumbtack on the cork to weight it.
You can make all kinds of cork floaters. The other half of the cork is waiting.

Boats From Walnut Shells
Materials
an unbroken half of a walnut shell
clay
a piece of paper
blunt scissors
a pencil
toothpicks

Carefully cut a walnut shell in half.
Put a small wad of clay inside of it.
Draw a sail about the size of a postage stamp and cut it out. Put a toothpick mast in and out through the sail. See Picture. Stick the bottom end of the mast in the clay.
Your boat is ready to sail. You can make several boats and have races.

Building
Sand Castles
With Cans
Materials
all sizes and shapes of tin cans
adhesive tape for any rough edges

Ask your mother to save tin cans of different shapes. Ask her to help you be sure both top and bottom lids are off.
Tape edges with adhesive tape.
Now you are ready to build sand and block castles. Set the can on the sand. Fill it with wet sand. Then lift the can carefully, leaving the sand smoothly shaped like the inside of the can. Each can will make its own shape. A flat can will make a boat shape. A tall, round can will make a castle tower.

Tin Can Stilts
Materials
2 cans of the same size
hammer and nail
scissors
2 pieces of string, each about as tall as you are.

Punch a nail hole on each side of the unopened ends of the cans.  See Picture.
Thread a string through the holes in each can. Tie knots so the string won’t pull through. The knotted ends should be inside the cans. Stand on top of the cans. Pull the strings up.
Hold the strings tight and walk.
You can make tin-can stilts with taller cans, and then still taller cans.

Design Basics Ceramic pottery
Hobby ceramists as well as tole painters will reap a wealth of brushwork knowledge from the articles and easy to understand illustrations in this well written book.
See for yourself what everyone is talking about.

Holy family catholic ceramic crafts

What You’ll Need;
Holy Family greenware.
Cleaning took.
Brushes-Glaze and small brush reserved for gold.
Yadro glaze.
Liquid bright gold.

Use a single glaze and touches of gold overglaze luster to accent the beauty of a finely detailed piece such as the Holy Family pictured here.
Step 1 Clean the greenware in the usual careful manner, taking care to replace the details and texture in mold seam areas.
Fire the greenware to cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 2 Use a glaze brush to apply 3 coats of Yadro glaze to the entire piece, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next one.
Fire the piece to cone 05 (1915°F-1046°C).
Step 3 Using a small brush reserved for gold, apply a coat of liquid bright gold to Joseph’s neckband and waist cinch, to Mary’s neckband and cuff bands, to the infant’s drape, to the gifts, and to the trim on the base.
Allow the piece to dry, then fire it in a well-vented kiln to cone 019 (1261°F-683°C).

Now for the recipe courtesy of Cynthia Snell: Peel and slice 16 golden delicious apples into a bowl. Stir in 1  T cinnamon, 2 T tapioca, and 1 cup sugar. Pour into pie shell, then add 5 slices of butter. Place top pie shell over filling and brush top with cream for even browning. Bake at 425° for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350° and bake 30-40 minutes until top is golden brown.
What You’ll Need:
Stoneware bisque pie pan.
Cleaning tools.
Natural sponge.
Brushes-#’s 2 & 6 synthetic soft rounds.
Apple template.
Glazes-Red Pepper and Forest Green

Stoneware
You are sure to enjoy making and using a stoneware pie pan like the one pictured here. Once you have finished the piece, you will find a recipe at the end of the article, so you can try it right away.
Step 1 Clean the stoneware in the usual careful manner.
Step 2 Use a pencil to lightly divide the pan into 4 equal parts. Divide each section in half to give a total of 8 sections.
Step 3 Using an apple-shaped template and a pencil, draw an apple at each of the 8 dividing lines. Sketch a leaf at the top of each apple.
Step 4 Apply 3 generous coats of Red Pepper glaze to each apple, allowing drying time between coats. Step 5 Paint the leaves with 2 coats of Forest Green. Use a #2 round brush to add a comma stroke stem at the top of each apple.
Step 6 Use a natural sponge to apply a color of your choice to the rim of the pan. Step 7 Fire the piece to witness (standard) cone 2 (2124°F-1162°C).

Santa andTree
What You’ll Need;
Greenwarc Santa and tree.
Cleanup tool.
Sanding pad.
Sponge.
Aluminum loiL
Brushes-#6 China oval scroller, #’s 3,5, and 8 drybrushing, #0 shon liner, #2 long liner, #0 detail, #’s 6 & 10 long shadcrs, and 3A” glaze.
Nonfirmgacr)’licstains-Sno-VV’hite. Honey Toast, Feather Grey, Blueberri, Country Sage, Chocolate Fudge, Liconce, Razzbcrri, Fleshtone, True Blue, Accent Green Black Forest, Royal Fuchsia, Brightest Red, Zuni Brown, Old World Santa Red, Brightest YeUow, Fiery Red, and Thermal Green
Nonfiling metallic stains Glorious Gold and Shimmering Silver.
Sealers-Matte and Fbrcelain-type sprays and gloss brush-on.
7mm pin lights.
Electrical hookup.
Colored buttons, raffia, and fabric scraps (optional).
Glue.

TREE
Step 1 Base coat the tree and base with Accent Green.
Step 2 Drybrush the tree with Artichoke and then with Country Sage. Highlight with Thermal Green, then tip the branches with Sno White. Drybrush the raffia with Zuni Brown, then with Honey Toast. Drybrush the ribbons and tree skirt with Brightest Red and then with Fiery Red; highlight with a little Glorious Gold. Drybrush the tree skirt trim with Sno White.
Drybrush the buttons with colors of your choice, then highlight them with White.
Step 3 Spary the pieces with 2 coats of porcelain type sealer. Apply 2 coats of gloss brush on sealer to the buttons and ribbons.
Step 4 Glue in the pin lights and install the electric wiring.
If desired, glue colored buttons and rallia bows over the embossed ones and add a few strips of colorful fabric.

Santa claus craft
Fun projects from start to finish, this droll Santa and tree are sure to be stellar attractions during the holidays.
PREPARATION.
Step 1 Clean the greenware, using a cleanup tool, a sanding pad, and a sponge. If you plan to light the finished tree, make holes for the pin lights and the electrical wiring.
Fire the greenware to witness (standard) cone 04-03 (1940/ 2014°F-1060/1101°C).
Step 2 Thoroughly shake and stir the nonfiring stains, then place a small amount of each in a separate spot on a piece of aluminum foil. Paint each bisque piece as directed below, then roll up the foil and toss it away.
SANTA
Step I Using brushes suited to the sizes of the areas being covered, base coat the piece with the following colors: FLESHTONE A11 flesh areas. BRIGHTEST RED-Santa’s hat and coat.
BLACK FOREST Cloves and bow on Santa.
OLD WORLD SANTA RED-Birdhouse roof.
SHIMMERING SILVER-Bucket. HONEY TOAST-Star and birdseed.
FEATHER GREY Hat and coat trim, hair and beard. Base coat the buttons and patches with Old World Santa Red, Royal Fuchsia, True Blue, Honey Toast, and Black Forest.
Step 2 Using brushes for dry-brushing, carefully drybrush designate areas with the following colors:
FIERY RED Santa’s hat and coat. RAZZBERRI-Royal Fuchsia areas.
HONEY TOAST Black Forest areas.
BRIGHTEST RED-Cheeks. BRIGHTEST YELLOW Birdseed and star. SNOWHITE-Hair, beard, hat and coat trim, and highlight on birdseed.
BRIGHTEST RED Birdhouse. BLUEBERRI Bird.
Step 3 Using a shader brush, float Licorice in the deep crevices. Float Chocolate Fudge in the crevices of Santa’s face.
Sfep 4 Pain I the eyes and ihe
“stitches” Licorice, then highlight each eye with a dot of Sno White.
Add details of Glorious Gold to the large bow.
Step 5 Spray the piece with 2 coats of matte sealer.

Advanced Mold Making
A comprehensive video on making three  and four-piece molds. Explains how to mark parting lines, claying up, making slide and dry footing. More advanced Making I video

Two Hours of Mold Making with Michael Neff on Video.
Mold Making I
This very comprehensive video spotlights on the tricks of ihe trade for making and finishing a mold. Includes a list of supplies and lools needed, how to mark parting lines, applying separator, mixing and pouring the plaster, and making the locks. Easy to follow instructions also included in handy reference booklet.

Apple craft
What You’ll Need;
Greenware figurine. 11″ T.
Cleaning took.
Brushes-* 1 mini-liner, #’s 1 & 4 round, #4 soft fan, and #’s 2 & 4 for drybrushing
Stylus.
Underglaze colors for bisque-Firecracker, Green Acres, and Happy Trails.
Clear glaze.
Nonfiring antiquing color for bisque-Midnight Black and Doeskin.
Nonfiring acrylic stains-White, Coal Black, Palmetto Green, French Chartreuse, Bittersweet, Congo Brown, Santa Red, Orange Sherbet, Sunburst, Denim Blue, Fudge, Rust, Sania Fe Flesh, Creamy Beige, Medium Flesh, Blue Ribbon, Midnight Green, and Natural.
Bronze nonliring metallic stain.
Brush-on sealers-Matte and gloss.

Apple craft
Summer vacation is over and this little fellow is heading off to school with an apple for his teacher, but what, do you suppose, is he plan nine to do with that frog?
Step 1 Clean greenware figurine, taking care to replace details and texture in the mold seam areas.
Fire the piece to witness (standard) cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 2 Using suitable brushes, apply 3 even coats of underglaze colors for bisque to the following areas. Apply the color smoothly and allow drying time between coats: Apple (carefully avoiding the worm), Firecracker; leaf, Green Acres; and stem, Happy Trails.
Use a soft fan brush to apply 2 coats of clear glaze to die same areas, allowing each coat to dry well.
Fire the piece to witness (standard) cone 06 (1830°F-999°G).
Step 3 Apply Midnight nonfiring antiquing color for bisque to the pants, shoes, knapsack, and frog. Once again avoiding the worm, apply Doeskin to all remaining bisque areas. Allow the piece to dry.
Step 4 With drybrushing brushes suited to the sizes of the areas being worked on, drybrush and detail the piece with nonfiring acrylic stains as follows: FLESH AREAS Medium Flesh. Lightly blush the cheeks with Santa Fe Flesh.
HAIR-Rust. Highlight with Orange Sherbet and then lightly with Bittersweet.
PANTS-Blue Ribbon, Highlight with Denim Blue, then dryHAT Denim Blue. Lightly highlight with Natural. Apply Blue Ribbon to the button and stitches, then lightly drybrush over the button and hat stitches with Denim Blue.
SWEATER-Fudge. Referring to the photo, create an ombre pattern by drybrushing the sweater alternately with Santa Red, Sunburst, Natural, and Bittersweet. Drybrush the ribbon on the collar and cuffs with Natural. KNAPSACK & STRAPS Congo Brown. Highlight with Creamy Beige.
FROG-Midnight Green. Highlight with Palmetto Green, then lightly with French Chartreuse. WORM-Base coat with Palmetto Green and lightly drybrush with French Chartreuse. SHOES-Toes and rims, White and laces, Black.
Step 5 Use a stylus to apply dots of Rust for freckles on the cheeks and the bridge of the nose. Using a #1 mini-liner brush, apply Santa Fe Flesh to the mouth. Apply Coal Black to the eyes of the boy and the worm. Fill in the frog’s eyes with Natural, then add Coal Black pupils. Highlight all eyes, using a dot of White for each one.
Step 6 Apply Bronze nonfiring metallic stain to the buckle and to the buttons on the knapsack.
Step 7 Apply matte sealer to the toes of the shoes and gloss sealer to all eyes, the ends of the shoelaces, and to the button on the hat.

The highest quality fired color for bisque in the industry!
Over 70 vibrant colors.  Smooth, non gritty formula. Doesn’t dry quickly on pallet. Works great with our new Quik Dip Clear Glazes!.
Top selling Premium Underglaze colors to be purchased direct from the factory*.
Easy Express Pak numbers to order quickly and efficiently. Various quantity levels available to best fit your business.
If you are In an area serviced by a full line stocking GARE distributor, we wilt gladly refer you to that distributor.

Magic Flow
Featuring Gare’s Simplicity” Glazes
Step I: To witness cone 04 bisque, apply 3 awls of bland Suri
Step 2: Mix 2 parts of Hunter Green with I purl Magic Flow. Add a few drops of Thick’n H. Pi(k-up this mixture with a tuffy sponge or plastic pot scrubber and stipple to the entire piece tapering slightly at the bottom. Repeat with Arctic White.
Step 3: Use an aim sea wool sponge & very lightly stipple Cobalt Black. Fire to witness cone 06.
We call our non-toxic glazes Simplicity7″ because tliey are simple to use. You can apply Simplicity”‘ knowing you will get a glossy, vibrant, trouble free finish.
Over 80 Simplicity’” glazes are available in 4oz. jars and 16 oz. bottles. All Simplicity’” glazes am be specially ordered in 1 gl, 5 gi, or 50 gl. containers.

Golden Spirit SANTA
Suffused with accents of gold, this old world Santa would easily be the center of attraction in anyone’s holiday decor.
Sfep 1 Clean the greenware in the usual careful manner, being sure to replace details in die mold seam areas and elsewhere as necessary.
Fire the piece to cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 2 Avoiding the central part of the collar and the sleeve triangles bordered by strings, apply Golden Wheat nonfiring antiquing color for bisque to the coat. Apply Meadow to the hat, the foliage coming from the horn and around the candlestick, the shoelaces, sleeve triangles, and the gown.
Step 3 Apply Burnished Gold nonfiring metallic stain to the horn, belt, coat collar, candlestick, gifts, horn details, shoe, fruits on hat and candlestick, ribbons around hat, jingle bells, and strings on sleeves. Allow the piece to dry.
Step 4 Working on a small area at a time and removing the excess with a soft cloth, antique the piece with Pine nonfiring translucent stain.
Step 5 Drybrush Ivory on the candle and also softly on the Golden Wheat areas for highlights.
Step 6 Prepare a flesh color by adding a few drops of Rust to some Dresden Flesh. Apply 3 coats of this mixture to the face and hands. Darken the mixture a bit more and use it to dry-brush the face and detail the fingernails.
Paint the eyes Pottery Blue and Black, then add the eye lines and lashes with Bark.
Step 7 Drybrush the beard, mustache, and eyebrows with White. Also go over the Meadow areas, reinforcing the color on the lace on the hem and cuffs of the coat and on the edges that resemble fur.
Step 8 Apply Opal liquid glitter to the while borders of the coat, gown, shoelaces, and to the green parts of the hat, candlestick, and horn.
Apply Gold liquid glitter to the yellow section of the coat, the golden sections of the collar and horn.
Step 9 Apply Golden opaque glitter stain to the half moon of belt buckle, hat ribbons, small fruits on hat, horn, large fruits on candlestick, strings, and jingle bells around sleeves. Step 10 Apply Gloss acrylic stain to the eyes.
What You’ll Need:
■ Greenware Santa.
■ Cleaning tools.
■ Various brushes.
■ Nonfiring acrylic stains-White, Ivory, Dresden Flesh, Rust, Pottery Blue, Black, Bark, and Gloss.
■ Pine nonfiring translucent stain
■ Burnished Gold nonfiring metallic stain.
■ Liquid glitters-Opal and Gold. Golden nonfiring opaque
glitter stain.

Your very special pasta creations deserve a bowl as fine as the one pictured here. The piece is easy to make with a majolica technique and you are sure to enjoy both making and using it.
Step 1 Clean the greenware bowl in the usual careful manner, then fire it to cone 03-02 (2014°/2048°F-11017H20°C).
Step 2 Use a 3A” oval glaze mop brush to apply 3 flowing coats of White Cloud dinnerware-approved glaze to the entire bisque bowl. Allow the piece to dry after each coat and to dry thoroughly after the final one.
Step 3 Using a #4 pointed round brush and the translucent colors for bisque from the materials list, write the names of different types of pasta on the inside and outside of the bowl. Apply 3 coats of each color for nice rich, deep tones.
Use a #6 pointed round brush to apply 3 coats of Just Froggy to the rim of the bowl.
Step 4 Fire the bowl to cone 06-05 (1830/1915°F-999/1046°C).
What You’ll Need:
■ Greenware pasta bowl.
■ Cleaning tools.
■ Sponge.
■ Brushes-3/*” oval glaze mop and #’s 4 & 6 pointed rounds.
■ White Cloud dinnerware-approved glaze.
■ Translucent colors for bisque-Toad-aly Green, Just Froggy, Salsa, Orange Ya Happy, Poo Bear, Moody Blue, and Blue Grass.

Scarecrow & Pumpkin Stack
This happy, grinning scarecrow and stack of grimacing, lightable pumpkins are fun to complete with nonfiring stains.
Step 1 Cast the molds for the scarecrow and the pumpkin stack. Allow the scarecrow to dry, but cover the pumpkin stack with plastic to keep it damp until you are ready to begin work.
If you purchase the greenware, ask that the pumpkin stack be kept damp for you.
Step 2 Use a cleanup tool or a sharp knife to cut out the eyes and mouths of the pumpkin stack. Also make a hole in the back of the piece for a snap-in light socket to be added later. Allow the piece to dry.
Step 3 Clean the greenware scarecrow and pumpkin stack replacing details in the mold seam areas as needed.
Fire the pieces to cone 05-04 (1915/ 1940°F-1046/ 1060°C).
Step 4 Base coat the pumpkin slack pumpkins with Orange Ice nonfiring opaque stain. Allow the piece to dry, then antique the pumpkins with Redwood nonfiring translucent stain. Wipe back with a soft cloth, dampening it with thinner-cleaner if necessary. Step 5 Drybrush the pumpkins with Tangerine, then lightly with Yellow. Shade around the cheeks and mouths with Blush. Paint the teeth and eyes Yellow, then add Black pupils to the eyes. Base coat the pumpkin stems with Misty Beige and shade them with Red Brown and Sap Green.
Step 6 Base coat the scarecrow’s pumpkin head and the small pumpkin with Orange Ice. Drybrush the same areas with Tangerine, then shade them with Blush. Fill in the eyes with Sno-White and paint the irises Soft Blue with Black pupils. Add a tiny Sno-White highlight to each eye. Paint the carrot nose of the pumpkin head with Blush and use Black for the mouths of both pumpkins and the eyes and nose of the small one.
Step 7 Base coat the leaves with Black, then drybrush them with Sap Green and Inca Gold.
Step 8 Base coat the straw (hair, above shoes, and broom straws), broom handle, and gloves with Sable Brown. Drybrush the straw with Inca Gold, Ivory, and then with Old Ivory for highlights. Drybrush the gloves with Misty Beige.
Step 9 Base coat the coat, shirt, and scarf with Rook-wood Red and the pants with Rose Mauve. Outline the scarf with Rose Mauve and paint the fringe Sap Green. Base coat the coat, hat, and shoes with Black. Paint the hatband Persian Red. Drybrush the coat with Navy Blue and paint the buttons with Shimmering Silver nonfiring metallic stain. Use Persian Red and Sap Green for the patches. Step 10 Spray each piece with matte sealer. Install a light socket and cord in the pumpkin stack.
What You’ll Need:
■ Greenware scarecrow and damp greenware pumpkin stack
■ Cleaning tools
■ Various brushes
■ Nonfiring opaque stains-Orange Ice, Tangerine, Blush, Yellow, Misry Beige, Red Brown, Sap Green, Sno-White, Soft Blue, Black Inca Gold, Sable Brown, Old Ivory, Rookwood Red, Rose Mauve, Persian Red, and Navy Blue.
■ Redwood nonfiring translucent stain.
■ Thinner-cleaner.
■ Shimmering Silver nonfiring metallic stain.
■ Matte sealer.
■ Snap-in light socket and cord.

Look what’s up in the pumpkin patch! Nodding their wobbly heads in anticipation, this trio of cat, ghost, I and witch are ready for Halloween mischief and fun.
Step 1 Purchase the greenware or cast the pieces. If you do your own casting, be sure that the heads and pumpkin tops are not too heavy. (We pour slip into the bodies and pumpkin bottoms, wait a few minutes, then pour slip into the heads and tops, so we can empty the molds at the same time. Empty the ghost tail and pumpkin stem, but allow the hands, feet, and other tails to become solid.)When you remove the pieces from the molds, cut out the neck areas as wide as possible and cut a hole at least lW wide in the bodies. Slightly push in on the ghost tail so it will fit the shape of the pumpkin.
Step 2 Clean the greenware in the usual way, replacing details as needed, then fire the pieces to cone 05-04 (1915/lWF-lW6/106(rc).
Step 3 Using nonfiring opaque and translucent stains and chalks, finish the pieces as follows: PUMPKINS-Base coat the entire pumpkin with White, then antique the entire pumpkin and stem with Black nonfiring mineral spirit stain. Allow the pieces to dry, then wipe down with a cloth and mineral spirits, allowing the color to remain in the crevices. Drybrush pumpkins with a mixture of Orange stain and blending medium. Drybrush the grass and leaves with Olive. Spray with porcelain-type sealer, then highlight the leaves and grasses with Dark Brown and the Orange mixture. Drybrush the stems with Dark Brown. Spray with matte sealer. CAT-Base coat with Black. Dry brush White on the top outer edges of the eyes to look like eyelashes. Apply White to the bottom third of each eye and Black to the remainder. Color the eyes Bahy Blue and highlight each with a dot of White. Paint the nose and mouth Strawberri Cream.
GHOST-Base coat with White. Apply Gray chalk in the mouth, crevices of the head, arms, and fingers. Blush the cheeks and mouth with Pink chalk. Using Black stain, drybrush the eyelashes as for the cat. Carefully avoiding the ey?es, apply clear liquid glitter to the entire ghost. WITCH ase coat face, body, and hands with White and the coal, hair, buttons, and collar with Black. Antique the pieces with Black mineral spirit slain. Drybrush Olive on the face and hands and Purple on the body. Paint the fingernails Black and the moles on the face Dark Brown. Finish the eyes as for the cat. Apply White to the teeth. Blush the cheeks with Pink chalk. Spray the pieces with matte sealer.
Step 4 Glue the pumpkin stems to the pumpkin tops to cover the pour holes. Lay the cat’s tail beside the body and glue to the pumpkin. Glue a spring to the post of each pumpkin bottom. Glue tails, feet or hands to the pumpkin bottoms (see the photo). Glue the heads to the pumpkin tops. Allow the pieces to dry. Position the bodies over die springs, but do not glue them in place. Glue the heads to the tops of the springs, being sure they are centered between hand or feet.
What You’ll Need:
■ Greenware pumpkin tops and bottoms, cat, ghost, and witch bodies and heads, and hands, tails, and feet. 3′/4″T.x21/2″W.
■ Cleaning tools.
■ Various brushes.
■ Nonfiling opaque stains-White, Black, Orange. Olive, Dark Brown, Bab)’ Blue, Strawberri Cream, and Purple.
■ Black nonfiling translucent mineral spirit slain.
■ Blending medium.
■ Chalks^Gray and Pink
■ Clear liquid glitter.
■ Sealers^orcelain-type and matte.
■ White craft glue.
■ Springs.

SECOND PAINTING
Corner load a small shader brush with Dark Blue and shade the blue area of the top bird. Place this shading on the head just above the beak, at the back of the neck, and along each wiped-out feather. Shade the breast with short choppy strokes of Yellow Red, placing the strokes under the wing and along the edge of the body. Darken the throat with the same color.
Shade the other bird in the same way.
Deepen the color on the flower petals and centers if necessary.
Model and shade the leaves with Autumn Green, being sure to keep the foremost ones light in color for added dimension.
Shade along the edges of the branch with Rich Brown.
Fire the china to cone 017 (1377°F-747°C), then sand and wipe it as before.
THIRD PAINTING
Using a detail brush, paint a tiny triangle shape of Black in front and in back of the top bird’s eye. Also outline some of the feathers with sketchy lines of Black.
Detail the other bird in the same way, adding its feet with short, curved strokes of Rich Brown.
Use the detail brush and either American Beauty or Ruby to lightly sketch an outline of the flower petals and to add some lines radiating from flower centers. Add some tiny dots of Dark Yellow Brown around each flower center. Place a tiny triangle of Black Green between the flower petals where they join the centers as “spaces” through which the sepals’ color can be seen.
Outline some of the main leaves with sketchy lines of Black Green and use the same color to add some center and side veins.
Fire the china.
What You’ll Need;
■ Suitable china.
■ Graphite paper.
■ Fine tip permanent marker.
■ Various china painting brushes.
■ China painting medium.
■ China painis-Baby Blue, Dark Blue, Mixing Yellow, Yellow Brown, Dark Yellow Brown, Gray Black, Pale Pink, American Beauty or Ruby, Yellow Green, Olive Green, Autumn Green, Black Green, Sienna Brown and Rich Brown.

FIRST PAINTING
Use a small shader brush to apply a coat of Baby Blue to the top bird’s head, back, wing, and tail. Clean the brush and use the edge of it to wipe out a highlight below the eye, on the shoulder, and on the edges of the wing and tail feathers. Paint the breast Yellow Red, leaving a large soft highlight in the center. Apply a little Gray to the rump. Load a detail brush with Black and paint the eye and the beak. Use a toothpick to wipe a highlight from the eye.
Paint the other bird in the same way.
Block in the flower petals and buds with Pale Pink. Apply Mixing Yellow to the flower centers, then shade the side of each center with a short, curved stroke of Yellow Brown.
Wash in the leaves with Yellow Green and Olive Green, using the darker Olive Green color to indicate separations between leaves. Wipe out some center and side veins in some leaves with a clean brush.
Paint the stem Sienna Brown, then wipe a highlight down the entire length of each section.
Fire the china to cone 017 (1377°F-747°C), then lightly sand it and wipe it with a cloth and alcohol.

Not exactly true to nature, these little birds are what 1 call “fun” birds, since they are done without the help of any reference material. Use this design on a porcelain canister that is handy for instant coffee or tea bags and is attractive enough to leave out on a counter, or on china of your choosing.
If using a canister as pictured, remove the metal fastener and the plastic seal and set them aside until the painting and firing are complete.
Make a copy of the pattern given here and enlarge it on a copy machine to fit the china you have selected. Trace the design onto the piece with graphite paper, then go over the lines with a fine tip permanent marker. Wipe off any remaining graphite.

The ancient Greeks named this colorful bird, which reached North America in the late 1800s. Breeding programs and the birds ability to adapt, soon made these exotic newcomers familiar throughout most northern states and southern Canada.
Step 1 Clean the greenwarc, being sure to replace the feather patterns in the mold seam areas.
Fire the pieces to cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 2 Wipe each bisque piece with a damp sponge to remove any dust, then base coat the birds with Black nonfiring acrylic stain.
Step 3 Carefully avoiding the male’s head and brushing across the feathers, drybrush both birds with Saddle Brown and then with Spiced Amber. Highlight the long side wing feathers with Oriental Flesh and then with White.
Slep 4 Heavily drybrush Terra Copper and then Hot Orange on the chest feathers and the skin around the eyes of the male bird. Drybrush the chest and the tips of the tail feathers with Light Brown and then with Oriental Flesh.
Drybrush his head and the long feathers on his back above the orange area with Holly Green. Very lightly  drybrush the same, areas with White and then with Emerald Green. Heavily drybrush a ring of White around the neck between the. green head and the brown body. Tip each body feather with an inverted “V” shape of Black, then add White above each one. Add Black stripes to alternating rows of tail feathers.
Step 5 Drybrush the female’s chest and tail with Oriental Flesh and highlight with White. Paint the body feathers in the reverse of the male’s, using upright “V” shapes of White. Add Black above each white “V”shape.
Step 6 Use Holly Green and then Emerald Green for the grass and leaves on the bases. Make the flowers Gold and highlight them with Oriental Flesh and then with White.
Step 7 Spray the pieces with matte sealer.
Step 8 Paint the eyes Gold tipped with Terra Copper, then add Black pupils and White highlights. Apply a coat of gloss sealer to the eyes.
What You’ll Need;
■ Greenware pheasants.
■ Cleaning tools.
■ Various brushes.
■ Nonfiring acrylic stains-Black, Saddle Brown, Spiced Amber, Light Brown, White, Gold, Oriental Flesh, Terra Copper, Hot Orange, Holly Green, and Emerald Green.
■ Sealers-Matte spray and gloss brush-on.

This terra cotta pitcher and matching plate make it easy to imagine a sun-dappled patio somewhere in the Southwest where one might relax with a cooling drink alter a hard day’s work. While you may never find yourself in such a pleasant situation, it is easy to make the pitcher and plate and the daydreams are free!
Step 1 Use a pencil to sketch the designs on the terra cotta bisque pitcher and plate. Outline a wide band at the bottom of the pitcher, then sketch on the pattern of triangles as shown in the photo.
For the plate, outline a band around the rim with the triangles just inside the band. Also draw a pattern of feather-like rays radiating from the center of the plate.
Step 2 Using a #6 sable round brush and referring to the photo, apply 2 coats of Black engobe to the bands and triangles on both pieces and to the handle of the pitcher. Clean the brush, then use it to apply 2 or 3 coats of Tangerine Red to the small triangles on each piece.
Step 3 Fire the pieces to witness (standard) cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 4 Pour some slightly thinned Black dinner-ware-approved glaze into the pitcher. Roll and turn the piece until the inner surface is evenly coated, then pour out the excess glaze. Allow the pitcher to drain well and use a sponge to remove any glaze drips.
Step 5 Using a #6 soft fan brush, apply 2 Lhin, even coats of transparent matte glaze over the entire plate and to the outside of the pitcher. Be sure to apply the glaze in thin, smooth coats to avoid the milky effect that can occur when this type of glaze is applied too thickly.
Step 6 Fire the pieces to witness (standard) cone 06 (1830T-999°C) with a 15 to 20 minute holding time at the maturing temperature.
What You’ll Need:
■ Terra cotta bisque pitcher and plate.
■ Brushes-#6 sable round and #6 soft fan.
■ Engobes lack and Tangerine Red.
■ Glazes-Dinnerware- approved Black and transparent matte.

Haystacks from the kitchen of: Glydis Scales, Russel Springs, Kentucky.
28 caramels
3 TBS margarine
2 TBS water
1 3 oz. can chow mein noodles
1 cup peanuts
6 oz. bag semi-sweet chocolate chips
2 TBS evaporated milk

Melt caramels and margarine with water in saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally until’ sauce is smooth! Add
noodles and peanuts. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto cookie sheet greased with margarine.
Melt chocolate chips with evaporated milk (water can be substituted if desired). Top “haystacks” on cookie sheet
with melted chocolate.
Chill until firm. Makes 2 1/2 dozen Butterscotch pieces can be substituted for chocolate chips for variety.

The molds are much better, the designs are more creative, products are getting better and we have more variety. Creative emphasis is stronger. Glazes, underglazes and overglazes are coming back into focus and the new unleaded glazes. The ceramist person needs to be encouraged to learn how to use them correctly and to capitalize on the many techniques available. We, as shop owners, need to constantly promote change. There is something for everyone.
To keep on doing what we have been doing: to be a better person tomorrow, greet each day with joy and greet each customer with a smile.

My youngest daughter has inspired me daily. Having marvelous teachers throughout the years has added to my knowledge. My students range from 30 to 80+ years of age. The majority are retired seniors. Their abilities range from beginner to advanced. We encourage creativity and some students hand-build their own pieces with clay. I feel ihis is a good learning experience and furthers ceramic knowledge based on the individual’s capabilities. Also 1 don’t believe competition and awards are the most important aspect of the ceramics industry. Treating my customers as I would want to be treated, promoting the industry as an art form and instilling creative pride in my students.

Who is a celebrity? We think they are people just like you, involved, interested and interesting. In Celebrity Clips, we introduce teacher, artist and shop owners in the hobby ceramics industry who are making a difference in their own way.
Located in Youngtown, Arizona, the first retirement community in the country, is a ceramic shop, owned and operated by a person with so much enthusiasm about ceramics and life in general, it makes you want to be a part of all the fun. Even though her successful business has tripled in size, it does not stop her from being a great teacher or a friend to all ot her students.
My first involvement was during my daughter’s high school years, only doing a few classes through the years due to family obligations. I again resumed classes in 1988 after my retirement and a move to Arizona. In 1991 1 started my own business. I am Duncan Certified and Hanovia Certified. I have been a member of IADCCT, (International Association of Duncan Certified Ceramic Teachers), for over 5 years and attend most of their educational functions. My specialty is filling the needs of people; whether it be in helping, listening or advising, I will always be there for them.

Porcelain is a demanding medium. It takes a tough kiln to fire beautiful dolls. A kiln that can fire porcelain can easily fire ceramics.
Doll makers expect a lot from their kilns, because they put so much of themselves into a doll.
Donna RuBert, doll sculptress, has made all her dolls in Paragon kilns. She and other doll makers depend on the even heat distribution of Paragon kilns. Porcelain’s narrow temperature range demands it.

STROKE & COAT IN LARGER SIZES
In response to customers’ requests, all Stroke & Coat WonderGlaze for Bisque colors are now available in the larger 8 oz. squeeze bottle. Also available in pints and gallons.

MAYCO’S MONTHLY FLYER PROGRAM
Mayco is offering a monthly flyer program. You will receive new releases of molds and new products information also valuable coupons for discounts on Mayco Products.

NEW FIRING TIPS
Orton has two new firing tip sheets for your best firing methods. One is “Understanding Heat Transfer” and the other one is “Success with Golds.”

SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS CERAMIC CONFERENCE
The George Walter Vincent Smith Art Museum at the Quadrangle in Springfield, Massachusetts, will present A Survey of American Ceramics, a three-day seminar to be held. . Elaine Levin will trace the history of American ceramics from the red earthenware made by potters of Jamestown in 1607 through the work of contemporary ceramics artists. Explore the collection of 15th through 20th-century Asian ceramics. The seminar will also include pottery, demonstrations, tours of the museum’s colletions and visits to the studios of three ceramic artists. For more information, write: The Museum School, Springfield Library & Museums,

SMALL BUTTERFLY
Compleie this butterfly as for the large one, using thinned colors as follows: Brite White on body around butterfly wings and on large spots inside upper wings (see the photo). Fill in the body with Darkest Brown. Use Rosewood shaded with Eggplant for the background areas on the upper and lower wings. For the remaining areas, use Peacock toward the center of the body and shade with Sapphire.
Allow the butterfly to dry.
Step 6 Place each butterfly on a sagger coated with glass separator, making sure each one is centered. Fire the butterflies to cone 016. With the lid propped, fire thirty minutes on low and thirty minutes on medium; close the lid and fire on high to completion. Do not open the kiln until it is completely cold.
Step 7 Paint the antenna of each butterfly with Raven Black nonfiring acrylic stain, then glue a rhinestone to the tip of each one.
Step 8 Turn the small butterfly over and apply 1 coat of gold leaf sizing to the entire back of the piece. Allow the piece to dry until the sizing loses the milky look but is still sticky. Apply Silver leaf over the sizing. Allow the butterfly to dry then use a cotton ball or a soft tissue to remove the excess Silver leaf. Use a soft brush to apply a coat of gloss sealer to the dry leaf.
What You’ll Need:
■ Large butterfly sagger.
■ 4 5″ by 5″ squares of single strength glass.
■ 4 4″ by 4″ squares of single strength glass.
■ Denatured alcohol.
■ Paper towels.
■ Glass cutter.
■ Abrasive stone.
■ Cleaning tool.
■ Applicator bottle with fine metal line tip.
■ Palette.
■ Palette knife.
■ Various brushes.
■ Fine tip marker.
■ Glass colors-Clear, Brite White, Outline Black Gloss Black Orange, Sun Yellow, Darkest Brown, Sap phire, Eggplant, Rosewood, and Peacock
■ 2—5″ pieces of high fire wire.
■ Glass separator.
■ Multipurpose glue.
■ Rawm Black nonfiring acrylic stain
■ Rhinestones.
■ Gold leaf sizing
■ Silver leaf.

During Colonial limes, fruit-covered wreaths were often hung on doors to greet guests I as signs of welcome and hospitality. Here is a lovely ceramic wreath covered with a wealth of luscious fruit to adorn your home.
Step 1 Clean the greenware in the usual manner, then fire the piece to cone 04 (1940°F-1060°C).
Step 2 Apply 2 smooth coats of While nonfir-ing opaque stain to the entire piece, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly. Check lor any missed areas by brushing the wreath with antiquing solution; if discolorations appear, dry with T-shirt material or paper towels and reapply the White stain.
Step 3 Tip a bristle brush in blending medium, then pick up some Brown nonfiring translucent stain. Apply this color to a small area, working it into the crevices. While the color is still wet, remove it by wiping the area with T-shirt material. Continue in this way to antique the entire wreath.
Moisten the cloth with antiquing solution and lighten the entire piece, especially the banana, lemon, and peaches.
Step 4 Paint the various fruits with translucent stain as follows: Place a few drops of blending medium and each of the stains in separate spots on a glazed tile or other palette. Lightly tip the brush with medium then into color and swirl the brush on the palette to distribute the color. Brush the color onto the indicated areas, then blot or wipe with a cloth to the desired tone. GRAPES-One bunch, Mint Green; one bunch, Fuchsia, and one bunch, Purple. PEACHES-Rouge with Flesh, then brush on a touch of Magenta for the blush. Blend with the cloth.
LEMONS-Rouge with Yellow. TANGERINE-Orange. BOTTOM APPLE-Rouge center with Yellow. Brush Red around Yellow, then blend with the clodi. TOP APPLE-Rouge center with mixture of Yellow and Green. Use a brush to apply Burgundy, streaking chartreuse area and blot with the cloth. RASPBERRIES & CHERRIES-Maroon.
STRAWBERRIES-Red, dien wipe bottoms till almost white. PEAR AT LEFT-Rouge with Mustard, then use clodi to rouge with Red Brown and dien with Green. PEAR AT RIGHT-Brown, then rouge with Mustard and then with Red Brown. PLUM-Mixture of Purple and a little Black.
PIN EAPPLE-Brown, then rouge with Mustard and then with Green.
BANANA-Rouge with mixture of Yellow and Mustard. Pick up a bit of Green and brush on edges, pulling color slightly into yellow. Blend color with the cloth. Brush Brown on tips and blend into green.
LEAVES-For all leaves including pineapple top, use several shades of green. Or, use Green on one half of the leaves and for the other half, add a bit of Black to darken the color. Apply with a brush, then wipe to your liking.
Pick up some Yellow on the cloth, rubbing on the palette to distribute, then rouge on edges or centers of leaves for added interest.
Step 5 Spray the wreath with 2 light coats of matte sealer.
What You’ll Need;
■ Greenware wreath.
■ Cleaning tools.
■ Various brushes.
■ Glazed lile or other palette.
■ T-shirt material
■ Antiquing solution.
■ Blending medium.
■ White nonfiling opaque stain
■ Nonfiling translucent stains-Brown, Mint Green, Fuchsia, Purple, Flesh, Magenta, Orange, Tangerine, Red, Yellow, Green, Burgundy, Maroon, Mustard, Red Brown, and Black.
■ Matte spray sealer.

BUTTERFLY
Create some beautiful glass butterflies like those pictured here. The process is not difficult and anyone with access to a kiln can easily complete the pieces. Step 1 Thoroughly clean the glass blanks with denatured alcohol and paper towels. Step 2 Place one of the 5″ by 5″ glass blanks on the upper left wing of the butterfly pattern. Trace the outline of the wing onto the glass with a fine tip marker. Repeat for the right wing. Use a glass cutter to score the glass and “cut out” the wings.
Using the 4″ by 4″ blanks, trace and cut out the lower left and lower right sections.
Trace the butterfly body pattern on a scrap of glass and cut it out.
Trace and cut out the parts for the small butterfly in the same way.
Step 3 Use an abrasive stone to sand around the edges of each glass shape to prevent cutting yourself.
Clean the glass pieces again.
Step 4 Sprinkle some glass separator on a kiln shelf. Assemble the butterflies on this shelf, upper and lower wings first. For each butterfly, fold a 5″ length of high fire wire in half. Dip the lower half of the folded ends into clear glass color and place one wire on the center of each butterfly as the antennae. Brush some clear glass color over one side of each butterfly body and center it, color side down, over the lower part of an antenna.
Allow the assembled pieces to dry, then fire them to cone 016 (1458°F-792°C). Step 5 Carefully clean the butterflies with denatured alcohol and, from this point on, handle them only by the edges.
Finish each butterfly as follows: LARGE BUTTERFLY-Place the butterfly over the pattern. Using an applicator bottle of Outline Black glass color, go over all lines visible through the glass. Maintain a steady pressure on the bottle, moving it faster for thin lines and slower for heavier ones. Allow the butterfly to dry, then sharpen the black lines as necessary with a cleaning tool and re-outline as needed.
Thin the glass colors to the consistency of milk and apply to the butterfly as iollows: Scoop up the thinned color with a brush and set it down to make contact with the glass surface to form a puddle. Use the brush to pull or to push the color to the edges of the outlined area. In this way apply Brite White to the spots on upper wings and to the spots around the edges of the lower ones. Use Gloss Black for the large spots on the lower wings and the background areas on the upper and lower wings. Apply Darkest Brown to the body. For the remaining areas, use Sun Yellow shaded with Orange.
Allow the butterfly to dry.